Slow-Braised Beef Ragù

Steps

1. 1Pat the beef very dry and season generously with salt and pepper. Surface moisture steams instead of browning, and the browning is where most of the flavour comes from.
2. 2Heat the olive oil in a heavy casserole over medium-high heat and brown the beef in two batches, 6–8 minutes each, turning only once a deep crust has formed. Set the meat aside.
3. 3Lower the heat to medium and cook the onion, carrot and celery 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until soft, sweet-smelling and lightly golden at the edges. Add the garlic for the final minute so it does not scorch.
4. 4Stir in the tomato paste and cook 1–2 minutes until it darkens from bright red to brick — this cooks out the raw, tinny taste.
5. 5Pour in the wine, scraping the base to lift every browned bit, and simmer 3–4 minutes until the sharp alcohol smell has gone and the liquid has reduced by half.
6. 6Return the beef with the tomatoes, stock and bay leaf. Bring to a bare simmer, cover, and cook gently for 2 hours — the surface should barely move. A hard boil makes the meat tight and stringy.
7. 7Uncover and check: the beef should shred with light pressure from a spoon. Break it into rough strands and simmer 10–15 minutes more, uncovered, until the sauce clings rather than pools.
8. 8Cook the pappardelle until just short of tender, reserving a cup of the starchy water. Fold the pasta through the ragù with a splash of that water over low heat for 1 minute so the sauce coats each ribbon.
9. 9Taste and adjust the salt, then serve with grated Parmesan and a final grind of pepper.

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